Here in Brightwood, on the western slope of Mt. Hood, the days have been hot and dry. Consequently, the edible mushroom season is suspended until the generous rains of autumn anoint the landscape with life-generating moisture. Only then will our beloved chanterelles be coaxed into action, fruiting suddenly and abundantly, carpeting the forest floor in celebration of yet another mushroom festival.
Oh, the wait seems so long ... can we be patient for the next month or so? And how will we be patient? Personally, my only relief comes from searching for new recipes to try with the upcoming fungal abundance. I've found that there's a certain amount of solace that is derived from daydreaming, from seeking alternative preparations to enhance our fungal table.
Chef Bonnie Frumkin Morales's Braised Chanterelles and Potatoes recipe is high on our list of recipes to try with the initial chanterelle foray. And, it's one that we'd like to share with you even though it's not yet gone through our "official taste testing" process. Why? Perhaps because it seems to us that this simple preparation just has to compliment the delicate flavors of the chanterelles. Or, perhaps because Chef Morales' recipe, as published in her debut cookbook KACHKA, would appear to allow the flavors of the fresh chanterelles to blend so divinely with the other ingredients.
If you too are impatiently awaiting the first edibles of fall, tuck this selection into your Recipes-To-Try file and relax. The revitalizing rains will be here soon enough, and we'll be ready for what happens next!
Memories of these first chants of 2017 heighten
our anticipation of the upcoming fall mushroom season.
2 pounds chanterelles
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1½ cups heavy cream
1½ cups smetana or European-style sour cream
1½ tablespoons kosher salt
2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1½-inch chunks
- Fill a large bowl or salad spinner with water, then thoroughly clean the mushrooms by dunking them in and vigorously swishing them around to shake loose any debris. Remove quickly, and repeat the process with fresh water until all the mushrooms are clean. Spread the mushrooms out on clean dish towels to dry.
- Tear any very large chanterelles into halves or quarters. Heat a medium-sized Dutch oven or heavy-sided pot over medium heat, and melt the butter. Add the mushrooms and cook down, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms give off their liquid and it mostly evaporates, about 10 minutes (you can cover the pot until the liquid comes out, so that the mushrooms don’t scorch, but then remove the cover to help the liquid cook off).
- While the mushrooms are cooking, whisk together the heavy cream, smetana, and salt. When the mushrooms have cooked down, pour in the cream mixture, and stir everything together. Add the potatoes and stir again, coating everything with the braising liquid. Bring the mixture to a simmer and partially cover (leave a small crack to let steam escape), then reduce the heat until it’s just high enough to maintain the gentlest possible simmer. Simmer for 2 to 3 hours, or until the potatoes and cream have both turned a light golden brown, and the liquid has cooked down a bit but is still saucy. Check it once an hour or so to see that things are moving along (no need to stir). Serve hot, with a bit of crusty bread to sop up the sauce if desired.