Is there really dim sum nirvana in Portland? We looked for a long time for one, having been utterly spoiled in San Francisco's Chinatown.
Then we discovered - quite by accident - Ocean City Seafood Restaurant, on S.E. 82nd. And we now believe that Portland has its own dim sum nirvana, to thoroughly mix our metaphors.
Within minutes of entering the restaurant, carts rich with an assortment of delicious morsels of savory food appear. Our table is quickly loaded with a selection of small steamer baskets and plates, and instantly we’re transported to a transcendent state of ecstasy via these gastronomic delights.
Yes, this is without doubt the place for dim sum when we’re in the Rose City. And, we know the reason that if you stop at Ocean City on a Saturday or Sunday you may be standing in line for a table. Their offerings are just that flavorful, and their variety is just that awesome; even Portlanders are willing to wait for a table to become available.
Of course, the elegant setting is a plus. The decor is bordering on luxurious, thanks in large part to the chairs draped in gold covers and the many round and square tables covered with white linens. Alas, this sophisticated interior contrasts dramatically with and is a stark refuge from the exterior parking lot, which is shared with an adjacent economy motel and which is often marred by litter and rubbish.
We’ve found the staff’s greeting to be warm and friendly and the service to be prompt and attentive. Nonetheless - and hardly uncommon for a dim sum place - it must be noted that some of the servers may have limited communication skills. Yet, when they don’t fully understand our request, they efficiently hand us a colored picture menu so that we can point to our preferred dim sum choices. Such a nice way to accommodate those of us who have scant knowledge of the variety of dim sum that may be awaiting our pleasure! Additionally, if the item that we’re craving isn’t on the cart, the wait staff graciously return to the kitchen to ask the cooks to prepare an individual serving of that item.
Dim sum, in particular the succulent corn and shrimp dumplings, the perfectly done hagow (shrimp dumplings) and the tender shumai has always been favorites at Ocean City. Or, it was until last week when Steven saw Razor Clams on the blackboard menu by the entry and ordered this daily special to add to our table already laden with dim sum dishes. Instant nirvana! The presentation and flavors of the razor clam dish ensured perfect happiness; they took us to an idyllic place!
The razor clams arrived steamed and served on the half shells, which were bedded on very thin, snowy white vermicelli and topped with an abundance of chopped garlic and drizzled with a “secret sauce.” I told Steven that if I could recreate that sauce, I could rule the world! It was a brilliant preparation. However, as the hostess/owner pointed out, razor clams have limited availability, thus this selection isn't always on the menu. One last note about the clams: they came with such a generous serving of the noodles that I had an excess to take home. The next evening I warmed them, folded in grilled shrimp and asparagus, and had a remarkably delicious, easy-to-prepare, satisfying home-style entree!
Ocean City Seafood Restaurant
3016 Southeast 82nd Ave.
Portland, OR 97266
503.771.2299
Dim sum orders served 9:30 am – 3:00 pm
Chef orders served 11:00 am - Closed