One of our more remarkable memories of 2017 was the Vantage River Cruise that we took in the early fall. Gliding down the Seine River, accompanied by swans and fallen leaves, towards the D-Day Beaches of Utah, Omaha, Gold, Juno and Sword was in many ways a sobering experience as we pondered what had happened there. Yet, the sheer beauty of that now-serene landscape also balanced - if that's possible - the high price paid by so many.
Ensconced in the comfort of the river boat, our attention often turned to the on-board activities, including several cooking demonstrations hosted by the culinary staff. One of the most delicious of these is this month's recipe for Matelote, a traditional French stew of fish and wine, that was offered by Executive Chef Igor Oluic.
There must have been about a dozen of us in attendance as the chef demonstrated the recipe in the Captain's Club. At first, we all were so serious, then gradually amused and entertained by the chef who constantly updated the recipe: "That's not how I fix it," he'd declare and suggest alternative ingredients rather than those proposed in the written recipe.
Frankly, this really is a divine and light preparation, and we're posting the original version as well as the annotated version (shown in italics) so that you can decide for yourself what would most please your palate.
Sunrise on a foggy morning on the Seine River.
Matelote is a French fish soup (also described as a stew or chowder).
It is made from freshwater fish, unlike the better-known Bouillabaisse, which is always made from saltwater seafood.
The fish is skinned and filleted. The disposable parts of the fish are first used to make the stock, then the rest of the fish is used in the soup after the broth is all done and strained.
There are several variations. Matelote Normande, for instances, uses hard cider, as is typical of Normandy, instead of wine.
Language Note: "Matelot" in French means "sailor."
2-3 strips of bacon (also, butter and olive oil)
1 large onion, sliced
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 cups wine (either a red Burgundy/Cote du Rhone or a dry white Cote du Rhone/French vermouth)
2 cups fish stock or clam juice (or, use water in place of these ingredients)
2 tablespoons minced parsley
1 bay leaf
1/2 teaspoon thyme
Freshly ground black pepper
Allspice (Herbes de Provence)
1 pound small fresh mushrooms, cut mouthful size
20 pearl onions, peeled, with crosses cut into their roots
2 pounds freshwater fish, cut in slabs, preferably eel, but perch or trout or catfish are great (halibut)
Garnish: White bread triangles, freshly sauteed in butter
- Fry the bacon in a large saucepan. When crisp, remove the bacon and reserve. Add the onion and garlic to the bacon grease and saute until tender. Pour in the wine and the stock, add the parsley, thyme, bay leaf, pepper, and allspice. Bring to a simmer and let it cook for 30-45 minutes.
- While the soup is simmering, prepare the remaining additions. First, put the little fresh onions into a pan of boiling water and cook them for a few minutes.
- Melt a couple of tablespoons of butter over a medium high heat in the same pan (water poured out), then add the mushrooms and toss until they are nicely browned. Remove them to a bowl.
- Add more butter to the pan and throw in the peeled onions, tossing them until they are patchy brown. Add them to the mushrooms.
- Deglaze the pan with water and pour all that brown goodness into the simmering broth.
- When 15 minutes away from serving, bring the soup to a boil and add the fish. Let it boil slowly for 8-10 minutes, until the fish is just done, then remove the fish to a serving tureen and keep warm. Scrape the onions and mushrooms into the broth, turn to a high heat, and boil hard for 5 minutes to reduce the soup and concentrate its flavors.
- Pour over the soup, garnish with buttery canapes.