Cranberries are a major crop on the southern Oregon coast, offering not only an economic boon to the growers and processors but also a positive aesthetic bonus as the bogs ripen in late fall, filling their beds with carpets of festive red berries.
Fall is a time of year that we always look forward to. Of course, there's fall mushrooming, but for us it's also cranberry time. Thanks to our mild climate, the berries here are thought to be a darker and sweeter fruit than is harvested in other areas, and we gleefully fill our freezer with bags of fresh cranberries to help us survive until the next year's crop is available.
Our Cranberry Chanterelle Duxelle is a celebration of both our local mushrooms and local cranberries which have been commercially dried. No need to wait until fall to make this particular duxelle. It's convenient to prepare year around, as it's based on frozen chanterelles from last year's harvest and dried cranberries.
How to use the duxelle? We're fond of selecting it as a filling for stuffed chicken breasts, salmon fillets and pork roasts. Sometimes we give into temptation and spread it on toasted slices of a long, thin baguette and top with locally made goat cheese. Then, of course, it's likewise very tasty as a topping on baked brie or tucked into a small savory tart or ravioli or omelets ... well, let's just say that it's a versatile preparation that is quick to make and adaptable to many applications.
The recipe begs for attention from the innovative cook who will tweak the ingredients and proportions to suit his or her individual taste: add a little garlic, substitute apricots for the cranberries, sprinkle in some finely chopped and roasted hazelnuts - the variations can be numerous and delicious.
One last thought. Don't be turned off by the fancy title (duxelle) bestowed upon this simple spread. It's believed to have been created by Francois Pierre de la Varenne, who was a French chef who practiced in the first half of the 1600s. He may have named his creation for Marquis d'Uxelles, for whom he had worked for 7 years. Traditionally, in spite of its aristocratic sounding name, a duxelle is nothing more than a mixture of chopped mushrooms, shallots, garlic and parsley.
Cranberry Chanterelle Duxelle
2 tablespoons butter
1 shallot, minced
1/2 cup frozen, sliced chanterelles which have been thawed, patted dry and chopped
1/8 cup dried cranberries, coarsely chopped
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Salt and pepper, to taste
- Melt butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add shallot and cook, stirring, until softened, about 2-3 minutes. Add chanterelles and cook, stirring until mushrooms have released any remaining liquid and the liquid has evaporated. Stir in chopped cranberries and parsley along with salt and pepper, to taste. Allow to cool completely before using.