Sybaris – an unlikely find in Albany!
Sybaris prepares various exotic
mushrooms, including the shitake
mushroom, shown here growing on
alder.
Growing up in Oregon, Albany was known primarily for two things. One was the Timber Carnival each summer, a unique, world-class event that hosted lumberjacks from all over to pit their log-rolling, timber falling and other logging skills against the best of their peers. Alas, the Carnival withered with the industry a few years ago and is no more. This left the other thing Albany was known for, and still is: the large Kraft paper mill, from which a distinct aroma can be noticed for miles. It’s a lot better than it once was, but you will still notice it.
Delve a little deeper in Albany and you find a nice little town with a lot more going for it than we ever realized until we visited recently on business. And a little research helped us find a very special restaurant that impressed us with its sophistication. This is Albany?
The building is an old, brick store front that was gutted and restored. A real, operating wood fireplace anchors the large, open dining hall, but the tables and booths are laid out cleverly to increase privacy and quiet.
The menu is changed monthly and offers plenty of unusual things to try. We shared an appetizer that started out as pig’s feet and with the imaginative preparation of owners Matt and Janel Bennett, was transformed into an absolutely delicious – what? – paté? Well, if not technically a paté, then something reminiscent of one, and yummy to boot.
When making our dinner reservation several days earlier, we had asked if the chef might prepare a mushroom appetizer for us since we didn't find one on the menu for April. He graciously agreed and presented us with an asparagus and black trumpet frittata drizzled with white truffle oil upon our arrival - what a treat!
My choice for an entrée was “Grilled mahi mahi with basil fed small escargots and black trumpet mushrooms on quinoa and a wild watercress-nettle sauce”, while Mary’s was “Iron skillet magret (giant duck breast) with pimenton infused turnip confit and a pinot-carrot jus.” Both were delicious and different, and not exactly something you would find just anywhere.
Restaurants this inventive are rare indeed, and can be pretentious. We didn’t feel Sybaris was pretentious… just excellent. And an unlikely find in Albany.
Sybaris
442 – 1st Avenue West
Albany, Oregon
(541) 928-8157
April 12, 2008
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