The nice folks at the highway department provide official signs on the Interstates noting (for a fee to the business owner, of course) gas, lodging and restaurants available to the traveler at the next exit. The restaurants so listed are almost always of the fast food variety, for better or worse, but we'd long ago noticed on the sign for Albany that there was one for Novak's Hungarian Restaurant. and resolved to give it a try some time. When in the neighborhood on business recently, we did just that.
We're no experts on Hungarian food, but Novak's food appears to be about as authentic as can be. It should be, considering that the founding couple (Papa and Mama) are native Hungarian, and escaped that country after the infamous Soviet invasion and crackdown in 1956, eventually making their way to the States. They've come a long way since then, too; Novak's is now a large and handsome place with what appears to be a devoted following.
Since any restaurant included here has to have some mushroom connection (even if somewhat tenuous), we perused the lengthy menu in search of some dish featuring fungi. We found it in the item, "Beef Pörkölt," which the menu described as "cubed sirloin tip in a specially seasoned mushroom sauce, served over homemade Hungarian pearl noodles." The mushrooms were almost certainly of the familiar, cultivated "button" type rather than a wild variety, but they were pleasant enough in a hearty sauce, and the noodles were a good choice, reminding us of German spatzle. This item was included in the "Shepherd's Combo," which also included Chicken Paprikás (paprika is a favorite spice for Hungarians), Székely Töltött Káposzta (cabbage roll) and Kolbász (sausage). It was all delicious, and very filling. Dessert was a physical impossibility, although they offer a wide selection.
Novak's has been passed on to a second generation of the family, although the founders are still frequently on site to offer their guidance when needed, and to visit with long-time customers they've known for years. It's good to see that the quality and authenticity has been maintained by the successors, and Novak's would be an interesting stop when you are in the area.
Novak's Hungarian Restaurant
2306 Heritage Way SE
Albany, OR 97321
541.967.9488
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